Tag Archives: Kaikoura

Kaikoura to Wharariki Beach-Day 14-15

Kaikoura-Day 14

We finally reach Route 1 North, headed towards Kaikoura on the East Coast, with the clouds doing their best to follow us. Fingers of solid rock would block the coastal road  if not for all the single lane tunnels they have built. Update: On November 14, 2016, a 7.8 magnitude earthquake wiped out much of this road.

Route 1 Near Kaikoura-Many Tunnels Coast Road
Route 1 Near Kaikoura-Many Tunnels Coast Road

It looks like the weather is going to break enough for us to go out on a Whale Watch boat. We had our doubts with all the rain in the mountains yet.

Grey and Blue
Grey and Blue

When we get to the launch site, the water has turned a turquoise blue and we are warned that the sea is a little rough today, but still safe to take the boat out.

South Bay
South Bay

We will be going out pretty far into open water and will have to stay inside the cabin until we get to the whales. I usually ride standing in the bow of a boat when it is rough to avoid getting seasick, so this makes me somewhat apprehensive. The tour costs $145 NZ each and takes about two and a half hours.

Whale Watch Boat
Whale Watch Boat

The boat has nice padded, car type seats and the guide is a Maori woman who entertains us with stories and slides while we motor out on the water. There for awhile the waves are crashing over the boat and we are slamming down into the troughs and it is all I can do to not lose my breakfast. I manage to wait until we are allowed outside before I finally spew over the side, just missing a guy downwind. After that I feel a little better and can concentrate on the one whale we finally spot.

Whale
Sperm Whale

This is a Sperm Whale about 40 feet long. Individuals are identified by the shape and markings of their tails. They come up for air and to rest about once per hour for 10-15 minutes .

Whale Tail
Whale Tail

This one is a male named Tutu. The females stay in warmer waters because they do not have as much blubber to keep them warm. The males who reside near here dive to 1000 meters  into the cold Kaikoura trench to eat large fish and giant squid.

Kaikoura
Kaikoura Bay

Coming back in, the light on the water raced ahead of the clouds. The next place we stopped, as we headed north, was at Oahou Point, near Halfmoon Bay, to see a bunch of Fur seals. They were all over the rocks.

Oahou Point
Seals at Oahou Point
Oahu Seal Colony
Oahu Seal Colony

The seals like to hike up a freshwater creek  to a waterfall and hangout there, napping. It seems like it would be a hard trek on flippers.

Fresh Water Falls on Seal Hangout
Fresh Water Falls on Seal Hangout

It is very strange for us to see Seals in the woods.

What? You've Never Seen A Seal in the Woods?
What? You’ve Never Seen A Seal in the Woods?

 

Seal With a Tree Pillow
Seal With a Tree Pillow
Closeup of Fur Seal
Closeup of Fur Seal

One seal had just given birth to a pup.

Seal Mama and New Pup
Seal Mama and New Pup

The seals don’t seem too bothered by people watching them and mostly nap the day away. We leave them to it and continue our trip North towards Blenheim.

Organic Winery Gate
Organic Huia Winery Gate

I am impressed by an organic Winery along the way. Growing grapes organically is a hard thing to pull off in the states with all the diseases and pests we have. I hope it is easier here.

Organic Winery
Organic Winery

We are heading inland again and the hills are looking dry.

Looks Volcanic
Looks Volcanic

This mountain has that volcanic blow-out shape. The house has the typical metal roof and low profile we have noticed just about everywhere.

Extremely Steep Clear Cut
Extremely Steep Clear Cut

I don’t know how they manage to keep the mountains from sliding down when they clear cut such steep hills. I am also glad I am not the one planting it back or operating the equipment on these slopes.

We skirt around Picton, where we will be catching the ferry in a couple of days, and head towards Nelson, which turns out to be a major seaport town. The weather has turned cold and rainy again and it is getting dark fast. We were thinking this would be a good place to eat fresh fish for a dinner out but it was a weekend night and everything was booked. We finally found a little place right on the water as we left town. It turned out to be quite expensive,  but the food was delicious, and we went all out and had wine and desert too. The fish we had was called John Dory, and there was fresh asparagus, a scalloped potato side, and fresh greens, with  a lemon curd and raspberry tart.Fish House on Water -NelsonRestaurant on the Water’s Edge

Mapua

We left the restaurant very full and finally found a  camp for the night  at Mapua. I think we found the camp listed on our GPS. We drove across a private causeway and stopped at the office, but no one was there. They had left a note to call their cell phone as they were at a party nearby. When we called we were told to just park somewhere near the kitchen block and catch up in the morning.

There were signs in the showers telling us that no togs were allowed in the showers, and that during  February and March,  clothing was optional in camp.

Joey
Joey, the Yellow Crested Cockatoo

In the morning we met the resident Yellow Crested Cockatoo, Joey. His one phrase was “Hello Joey” and he loved to have his head scratched. So far, it was not raining and soon we were on the road again, headed towards Abel Tasman Park. The farmland we passed on the way was neatly lined with wind breaks.

Valley Farms
Valley Farms

Riwaka Spring

We have a thing about springs and waterfalls, so we stopped at the Riwaka resurgence, a sacred Maori Spring coming out of the base of Takaka Mountain. No one is allowed to touch the water where it first emerges but there were some kids further down stream taking a quick dip in the really cold and clean water.

Resurgence Pool
Resurgence Pool

As we continued our journey up the mountain,  fog was starting to flow downwards. It got darker and darker towards the top.

Fog on the Mountain
Fog on the Mountain

It was like driving in the middle of the night, except our headlights hardly made a dent in the dense fog. And the road was a windy mountain road. We even came across a poor guy on a bike.

Ziggy Mountain Road
Ziggy Mountain Road

We finally came down out of the clouds, drove through the little town of Takaka and then stopped at Waikoropupu Springs. it was raining hard as we walked the pathways around to the huge springs there.

Waikoropupu Springs Walk
Waikoropupu Springs Walk

These giant springs flow  at an average 11.5 cubic meters per second and are considered some of the cleanest springs in the world.

Huge Spring
Huge Spring

Our goal today is to get to the sea caves on Wharariki Beach  and then the  Cape Farewell spit, at the northern tip of the South Island. As we drive through the more level land  on this side of the mountain there are huge  pipes irrigating  alfalfa fields in the rain, which seems like a waste. There are also acres of red and white bird netting installed over the Kiwi and grape vines and cherries. Flocks of birds are really bad for eating fruit.

Netting Over Fruit Crops
Netting Over Fruit Crops

 

 

 

Wharariki Beach

When we arrive at the Puponga Farm car park for our hike to Wharariki Beach, we are greeted by a peacock from the tiny Holiday Park there. This would have been a great place to camp if the timing had worked for us. The guy who runs it is very creative, and has built a magical outdoor bar with hammocks and tree tables.

Wharariki Peacock
Wharariki Peacock

As we step over the stile, we meet a welcoming committee of sheep,

Sheep Pasture Greeters
Sheep Pasture Greeters

Our narrow track runs right through the middle of this gorgeously green and picturesque sheep meadow on the way to the beach.

Lush Green Pastures
Lush Green Pastures
Winding Track
Winding Track

 

Hello. Who are Ewe?
Hello. Who are Ewe?

More sheep wonder why we are passing through.

It's Over That Way
It’s Over That Way

 

 

 

We wind through dunes covered in wind blown looking coastal trees, through sandy tunnels,

Sand Dune Tunnel Trail
Sand Dune Tunnel Trail

over a small creek, and eventually emerge on top of the last dune for a view of the beach.

First Beach View
First Beach View

 

 

 

The sand has been blown undisturbed with very few signs of people out here.

Endless Beach
Endless Beach
Big Flat Wharariki Beach
Big Flat Wharariki Beach

Some of the stacks are surrounded by water.

Sea Stacks
Sea Stacks

Others have slots you can get into.

Skinny Sea Caves
Skinny Sea Caves

There are seals laying about, tucked into sheltered corners.

Seals Stashed in Nooks
Seals Stashed in Nooks

There was one one big male seal perched way up on a huge rock, overlooking his domain.

Grandfather Seal Looming Over Young Buck
Grandfather Seal Looming Over Young Buck

An obviously younger male seal,  tried very hard to climb up the steep rock face to him, which looked extremely difficult using flippers. When he finally got to where he could peer upwards,  the old Alpha  male just shot him a disgusted look- daring him to take one more step. The young one slowly slid back down the rock, slumping exhausted onto the sand, closed his eyes, and went back to sleep.

Colors and Textrues in Rock
Colors and Textures in Rock

Some of the rocks had fantastic colors and layers of fossils.

More Colors
More Colors
A Wharariki Sea Cave
A Wharariki Sea Cave

There were sea caves all over the place.

Whaririki Stacks From Cave
Whaririki Stacks From Cave

It is wonderful how so many dunes are wild and intact in New Zealand.

Wild Dunes, Wild Beach
Wild Dunes, Wild Beach

The wind blows the sand into patterns, wildflowers grow…roadside horses say howdy on the way out …

Roadside Muncher Says Goodbye
Roadside Muncher Says Goodbye

We could stay here a long time but need to start back. We have to get as close as we can to Picton and the ferry tonight so we can catch a ride to the North Island  tomorrow. Good bye Wharariki Beach.

Wendy Lee,  writing at Edgewise Woods, Gardens and Critters